Travel

ZION

A Spiritual Experience

by Angele Florisi

I love to travel, to experience new places, to see new landscapes; and some of my absolute favorite places are found within the boundaries of the nation’s national parks.  This incredible system of public land encompasses some of the most breathtaking scenery in America.  Even though I’ve traveled to some far flung locations of the globe, I was in my 40’s before I had my first encounter with a national park.  Ever since then, I can’t seem to get enough.  Each park is unique, with a flavor and temperament all its own and we are lucky to live in an area that makes it relatively easy to reach a large number of the finest parks anywhere in the world — the Grand Canyon, Yosemite, Sequoia, Death Valley and so many more.  However, my favorite by far is one that is within a couple of hours from Las Vegas, and the only one that I return to over and over again.  So from now until the snow starts flying, take some time out of your busy schedule to experience the spiritual grandeur of Zion National Park.

To reach Zion, take I-15 north out of Las Vegas.  A straight through drive is approximately 160 miles, and an easy trek after work that will only take you about three hours.  If you can afford the time for a more leisurely amble to the park, leave early in the morning and you can make a number of interesting stops along the way.  The first side trip can be a ride to Valley of Fire State Park.  To get there take exit 75 into the park.  To leave Valley of Fire, you can either back track to I-15 or take Route 169 north through Overton and Logandale where it will meet up again with I-15 at exit 93.  If you choose the latter, you might want to consider a stop at the Lost City Museum of Archaeology just outside Overton.  Built on the ruins of an Anasazi pueblo, the museum houses an interesting collection of artifacts.  The museum itself has a fascinating history as it was originally constructed by the park service to house artifacts being excavated from the Pueblo Grande de Nevada sites threatened by the rising waters of Lake Mead following construction of Hoover Dam.

Continuing north on I-15 you will pass through Mesquite.  For additional information of the attractions, activities and accommodations in this Nevada border town check out their website at www.visitmesquite.com.  As you leave Mesquite you will pass through the far northwest corner of Mohave County Arizona.  Known more generally as the Arizona Strip, this geographic region north of the Colorado River is mostly untamed red rock wilderness managed by the BLM and US Forest Service.  Other than one campground and rest area just off I-15 at exit 18, it is not advised to traverse this area without a high clearance 4-wheel drive vehicle.  Maps and information are available at the BLM field office in St. George, Utah.  It is interesting to note however that according to Wikipedia, this section of I-15 that runs through the Virgin River Gorge was not completed until 1973 and at the time was the most expensive section of rural freeway in the country, completed at a cost of $10,000,000 per road mile.  Have your camera ready to snap photos from the passenger seat as you drive through because it’s the only chance you’ll get to capture the natural beauty here.

After passing through Black Rock Gulch you will enter Utah and pass through St. George.  This fast growing community is clean, beautiful and surrounded by red sandstone buttes.  The city was founded in 1861 as a cotton farming settlement by Brigham Young who maintained a winter home here.  In addition to the obvious Mormon history, and the beautiful natural surroundings, a number of Hollywood blockbusters were shot here including Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, Jeremiah Johnson, Romancing the Stone and High School Musical 2.  A good starting point for general information on the area is www.utah.com/stgeorge/.

After passing through St. George, continue north on I-15 to exit 16.  Travel east on Highway 9, which will take you directly to Springdale, the small town just outside the southwest entrance to Zion National Park.  The park draws approximately three million visitors per year and Springdale hosts a large portion of the lodging, dining, shopping and travel services for Zion.  There are also multiple staging sites for the park shuttle service which is the only way to access the main canyon from March through October and other peak periods.  Private vehicles are always allowed to pass through the park on Highway 9.  It is highly recommended that you make lodging or camping reservations prior to your trip as accommodations can be scarce, especially on busy weekends.  Because this is a location with a wealth of options for every taste and budget, here are few websites to help you find what works best for you: www.nps.gov/zion the official park service website, www.utah.com/national parks/zion.htm, www.zionnationalpark.com, www.travelwest.net/cities/springdale and www.utahtravelcenter.com/cities/springdale.

For lodging, our favorite choice is the Best Western Zion Park Inn.  With free high speed internet, a range of other amenities and clean, well-appointed rooms, we have never been disappointed.  There is also a shuttle stop here and the Switchback Grille on the grounds is excellent even if somewhat over priced.  For those traveling with pets, this facility offers designated pet rooms, but these rooms incur an additional $25 nonrefundable fee.  You can contact the inn online at www.zionparkinn.com or by calling 435-772-3200.  Other accommodations in the area include cottages like those at the Canyon Ranch Motel, pricey upscale private units like Flanigan’s Villas, more than a dozen bed & breakfasts and of course camping within the park itself.  Lastly, it may be worth noting that the Zion Lodge, operated by Xanterra for the Department of the Interior and the National Park Service, is the only facility that offers lodging within the park.  Although not the original historic structure, which was destroyed by fire in 1966, the lodge offers cabins, suites and motel rooms (including four accessible units).

No matter where you intend to stay, check in first if possible and/or pick up your park pass then wander around Springdale to get your bearings and collect information on the many tours and other services available to park visitors.  This tiny town of less than 500 residents, is the gateway to Zion and the stepping off point for nearly all of the park’s activities and adventure/outfitting companies.  Some of the more strenuous activities you can participate in are canyoneering and rock climbing, interpretive hiking, mountain biking, river tubing and outback safaris.  This group of outdoor enthusiasts is encouraged to contact the Zion Adventure company at www.zionadventures.com for outfitting and activity guides.  For those not interested in scraping their knuckles on rock faces there’s shopping, spa treatments, scenic drives, horseback riding, outdoor workshops and hikes that even someone as out of shape as I am can manage to participate in.  Then, of course, there’s food…        

Despite multiple attempts we have yet to find a great (or even passably good) place for breakfast in town.  Given the fact that this is the most important meal of the day, especially if you are facing one filled with strenuous physical activity, you would think there would be an abundance of proprietors willing and able to provide you with the healthy and hearty nutrition you need to start your day’s adventures.  But alas, that is not the case.  There are plenty of joints offering bagels, muffins and lattes; but none that I would recommend to anyone, much less someone looking for good food.  Dinner however is another matter altogether.  Consider the Switchback Grille noted above.  Their Ahi tuna is wonderful and we have never had a bad meal there.  The Zion Pizza & Noodle Company makes a good thin crust pizza (the Margarhita is my personal favorite) and a selection of microbrews.  My eatery of choice however is the Spotted Dog Cafe and Pub.  Don’t let the odd name of this establishment deter you from checking out this local gathering place.  The food is outstanding and comparable to any 5 star restaurant in Las Vegas.  Executive chef Jeff Crossland’s menu changes with the seasons and many dishes use fresh, locally grown ingredients as well as herbs from his kitchen garden.  The outdoor dining area is delightful and the service is impeccable.  Have I encouraged you to go yet?  If not, consider this…

Springdale has an abundance of eclectic shops and galleries worth exploring.  My two personal favorites are the Worthington Gallery and the Fatali Gallery. Our home is littered with pottery from the artists that display their wares at Worthington.  Every time I walk in, I walk out with some extraordinary find (sometimes several of them) at a great price.  Even if pottery or artwork isn’t you thing, you need to stop just to see the amazing wind sculptures by Lyman Whitaker displayed outside the gallery.  These magical and peaceful creations silently animate the slightest breeze and seem to resonate with the mystical aura of Zion Canyon.  I’m still lusting after one…  If you stop nowhere else, make sure to find the time to explore the Fatali Canyon Light Images Gallery and Museum of Photography.  Resident artist, Michael Fatali presents the visual splendor of the desert southwest like no one else.  He is the only individual I have ever met, and had the pleasure to work with, who lives his spiritual connection to the earth and those who share it on a daily basis; but his ability to inspire through the magnificence of his photography is beyond compare.  He has won acclaim both regionally and internationally as a world-class landscape photographer; but the power of his artistry is something that can only be experienced in the presence of his work.  The gallery is open from 4 to 10 PM, so it is easy to fit in a visit following a day in the park or even after dinner.  Both the gallery and museum are housed in the IMAX theater complex and his Schoolhouse of Photography, which offers seasonal workshops, can be found in Rockville.  All of Michael’s gallery images are available for sale and each one is individually hand printed and prepared for the buyer.  No computer enhancement, artificial lighting or filtration of any kind is used in the creation of his images.  His mission is to capture the mystical beauty of the natural world because that is what ultimately connects us with the spirit of the land.  His amazing ability to wait for hours, days or sometimes years for the exact moment and the perfect light to speak and reveal the secrets and wonders that express themselves through his camera lens are what makes a trip to the Fatali Canyon Light Images Gallery so remarkable.  Additional information can be obtained on the web at www.fatli.com but don’t even think about going there instead of the gallery itself.

Now on to the park…

The National Park Service (NPS) is the federal custodian responsible for managing responsible public assess within the scope of preserving and protecting the environmental and cultural resources of America’s national parks.  The Zion Natural History Association (ZNHA) aids the Park Service through fund raising and educational programming.  Information on the activities sponsored through them can be found at www.zionpark.org.  Your tax-deductible donations to this organization provide direct support to the park and help fund the Zion Canyon Field Institute which offers regular educational field trips open to the public.  As a personal benefit, your membership earns you discounts in most national park visitor center book shops across the country.  Joining such organizations a great way to support the park system and help maintain the parks you cherish most so they can continue to be enjoyed by future generations.  The entrance fee is $25 per car, $12 per pedestrian or bicycle ad the park pass is good for 7 days.  All pertinent park information can be obtained at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center.

I always start my first day in Zion at sunrise.  I let my husband sleep while I dress, grab my camera and head out to catch the first light of day illuminating the sandstone cliffs.  It’s a magical, mystical experience for me that renews my soul like nothing else can.  There’s an inexplicable sense of harmony here, a spiritual presence that has nothing whatsoever to do with organized religion.  You can almost hear the song of the earth in chorus with ancient voices singing ritual praises we don’t acknowledge.  The light is so pure it seems to have texture and time seems to stand still.

Following breakfast we gear up and head into the park.  Named by early Mormon settlers, Zion features massive stone formations and red cliff faces that have elicited feelings of reverence for centuries as indicated by the names given to prominent landmarks like Angels Landing and West Temple.  Even the Southern Paiute have their stories of spirits that inhabit the landscape.  The earliest human habitation dates back to about 7000 BCE.  The earliest settlers were replaced by the Anasazi who remained until around 1200 CE when drought and other factors seem to have forced them to abandon this and other settlements in the desert southwest.  The Mormon settlers came from Salt Lake City to grow cotton during the years surrounding the Civil War.  To this day the region is still known as Utah’s Dixie.  Farming and ranching continued until 1909 when the area was declared a national monument.  National park designation was extended by Congress in 1919.

The geologic forces that created Zion date back 225 million years to a time when the oldest rock layers were formed at the bottom of a shallow sea.  Volcanoes erupted and dinosaurs traversed landscapes far different than what we witness today.  More than 150 million years ago, a great desert of windblown sand scoured much of the southwest and provided the raw material for the Navajo sandstone cliffs towering 2000 feet high in Zion Canyon.  Over the millennia, other rock layers were laid down and ancient seas rose and fell.  The long, slow uplift of the Colorado Plateau brought other changes as did the rivers and streams that carved out the canyons visible today.

The park is home to an abundance of wildlife including mule deer, gray fox, Ringtail (a member of the raccoon family) and cougars.  Other mammals include rabbits, bobcats, beavers, coyote and big horn sheep.  More than 250 species of birds have been recorded and sightings of a peregrine falcon are not uncommon.  Park flora is equally diverse and range from orchids to prickly pear cactus and grasses to towering trees.  As is the case in all parks, all plants and animals are protected.

Do not pick flowers or attempt to feed any form of wildlife.

At the park entrance you will be given a map and informative “paper”.  Use it together with a visit to the visitor center to plan your activities.  The people who work here are extremely knowledgeable and their job is to assist you and answer your questions, so don’t be shy.  Take full advantage of what they can offer you whether it’s answering a question, locating a rest room and making arrangement for backcountry camping.  The easiest hike is the Riverside Walk into the canyon.  The path is paved and wheelchair accessible for the first half mile.  It winds along the Virgin River with 2,000 foot cliff towering above you.  Other hikes range from short and easy to time consuming and strenuous.

Standard safety precautions should always be observed since rescue is never a certainty.  Keep a close watch on children, never hike or climb alone, pay attention to weather conditions, carry water, stay back from drop-offs, wear appropriate footwear, and most important of all know your limits.  Staying safe is your responsibility.  Behave wisely and also remember that our desire to interact with wild and untamed places ultimately changes them.  Adhere to the Leave No Trace policy that promotes responsible outdoor recreation by minimizing the impact our presence leaves in unique and fragile environments.  Hike and travel only on designated trails, respect wildlife and fellow travelers, explore thoughtfully and leave what you find, taking nothing but photographs and memories.  Our parklands will be the better for it and your ethics will be rewarded through the enjoyment of all who follow you and your example.

You will be thoroughly amazed at how much there is to see and do here, and once you come I guarantee you’ll come back, probably again and again just as we have.  I can’t even begin to do justice to this phenomenal environment, to relate the stunning grandeur you will encounter or the emotional reactions you will have to it.  All I can tell you is to trust me and take the time to experience it for yourself.  You will not be disappointed.